Write down the code and brand off the sticker. Tell us both when you book, and before anybody gets in a truck we’ll tell you what that code usually means on your unit and what it usually runs, including the ones that turn out to be a reset you can do yourself in five minutes without paying us a dime.

It’s a spectrum. A one time ignition lockout, a scale related flow code, a clogged inlet filter screen or a fouled vent termination outside are a reset, a cleaning or a descaling, and some of them we can walk you through on the phone in five minutes and it costs you nothing. Heat exchanger, gas valve, control board and overheat faults are the other end, and on our own jobs those have run fifteen hundred to three thousand.

For the right house, yes. You’re trading a higher install cost and real maintenance for hot water that doesn’t run out, a smaller gas bill and the floor space back. Where it doesn’t pay off is light hot water demand, and we’ll tell you when a good tank is the smarter buy.

Meaningfully more, and the unit is only part of it. The bigger variable is what your house needs to accept one. That can mean upsizing the gas line, new venting and combustion air, and isolation valves. We provide pricing before we start work so there aren’t any surprises.

Endless, yes. Unlimited, no. Stay under its flow rate and it heats all day, but ask for more than it’s sized for and it just hands you cooler water. Shut a faucet off and back on and you get a slug of cool water, the industry’s cold water sandwich, and yes, that’s really the name.

Flow rate and temperature rise together, and people skip the rise. Tulsa winter water comes in near 50 degrees, so a unit rated at 11 gallons per minute really gives you about half that in January. Two showers at once is usually fine on a properly sized gas unit.

More often than not, yes. A 50 gallon tank burns around 40,000 BTU and a whole house tankless runs 150,000 to 199,000, so the half inch line that fed your old tank almost never covers it. Our Oklahoma license (#180753) covers gas piping, we do our own gas work and we pull the permit.

Almost never. Your old tank drafted up a B vent, and a modern tankless is sealed combustion that needs its own dedicated venting, usually PVC or stainless out a side wall with a matching air intake. If the tank shared a flue with your furnace, that flue is now oversized.

For one sink or a shop bathroom, an electric point of use unit is fine and we install them. For a whole house in Oklahoma it’s usually the wrong answer, because it wants three or four dedicated 40 amp breakers and a service upgrade that costs more than the gas work you were avoiding.

Yes, and in Tulsa it isn’t a suggestion. Our water is hard, and the scale it leaves narrows the heat exchanger until you get flow codes and an early failure. Descaling means circulating vinegar or the manufacturer’s solution through the unit with a pump, and we won’t set a tankless without isolation valves.

A full annual service is more than the acid flush. We rinse the inlet water filter screen, inspect the burner, check combustion and gas pressure while the unit is firing, which is the only time an undersized gas line shows itself. Under an hour, once a year.

A well maintained tankless should give you around 20 years, against the 6 to 15 you’d expect from a conventional tank. Neglected descaling on water as hard as ours is the most common way we see these die. The parts are serviceable too, so an older tankless is often worth repairing.

We don’t install customer supplied water heaters. Your warranty is as good as the person that warranties it, and when we buy from Winnelson or Locke we can carry a failed unit in and talk to a person. On the rare exception, the estimate says so in writing and we don’t warranty the unit.

Yes, and we service every brand. Around Tulsa we see Navien, Rinnai, Rheem, Noritz and A.O. Smith most. On the first visit we look at the install before we start replacing parts, because a unit that keeps throwing codes is often an install problem. Undersized gas line, wrong vent, no isolation valves.

We get this question a lot and unfortunately it isn’t a simple answer. When we started this company, we knew we wanted to become your one-stop shop for kitchen and bathroom remodels. However, we are a plumbing company first that is also steeped in remodel experience. Currently, we are not taking on or heading up any remodels or renovations, but it is the intent of our company to grow into that role to help homeowners navigate their remodels with licensed professionals. Stay tuned and we hope to be providing this service in the near future!

Yes, and it’s a good part of what we do. We handle the plumbing scope on new homes, room additions, garage conversions, and detached buildings, from the underground rough-in before the slab is poured all the way through setting your fixtures at the end. We’re the plumbing contractor on the job, not the general contractor. If you’re building from the ground up you’ll still want a builder or a GC running the project, and we’ll work under them or right alongside them. We bid commercial and multifamily plumbing too, and there’s a page for that.

Usually yes, if you’re moving or adding plumbing and not just swapping fixtures. We’ll tell you exactly what’s required for your project and handle the plumbing permit ourselves. Some contractors like to forego this step to save cost and circumvent licensed professionals. Sometimes that turns into a brand-new remodel that needs to be redone or partially redone because they took a shortcut.

We service Tulsa County, Rogers County, and all the cities in the Tulsa metro, and we’re already registered to pull permits in them, so there’s nothing to set up before we start. Farther out than that, anywhere in the state is possible if you’re covering the travel and the registration in that jurisdiction. Call us with the address and we’ll tell you what it would take.

We do, on the plumbing. When we pull the plumbing permit under our Oklahoma license (#180753), calling in the inspections on that permit is our job, not something you have to chase. Usually we schedule the inspection rather than stand there for it, since the inspector is looking at the pipe and the pipe speaks for itself, and we’ll meet them on site when the project calls for it. A plumbing project generally gets looked at three times. The underground inspection comes before any concrete is poured over the drains, the rough-in inspection comes once the pipe is in the walls and before anything covers it, and the final comes after the fixtures are set. Every permit office runs its own inspectors and its own particulars, so what your project needs depends on which one you fall under, and we’ll tell you what to expect before we start.

You get a written price before anything starts. That number comes from the fixture count, where everything sits, what has to be dug up or cut open to get there, and the material the job actually calls for. We don’t bury your fixtures inside a vague allowance number and let you find out at the end what it really bought. We recommend Delta, and we talk fixtures through with you as the project develops, so what’s in the price is what’s going in your house. It’s the same rule as our service work, we provide pricing before we start work so that there aren’t any surprises when you get the bill.

It happens on plenty of projects and it’s fine, as long as we handle the change the same way we handled the original bid. Anything that moves the price gets written up and priced before we do the work, so you’re approving it instead of discovering it on the invoice. Small changes, like sliding a shower valve over a few inches before the walls close up, usually cost nothing. Big ones, like adding a bathroom’s worth of drain after the slab is already poured, cost real money and add time, so tell us as early in the process as you can. The only change order that ever gives anybody trouble is the one nobody wrote down.

Both. We prefer to handle a project from rough-in through finish so there’s one point of accountability. We can also step in for finish-only if your rough-in was done by someone else. At which point, we’ll assess what’s there first, make sure it’s up to your standards, and provide you a price for completing the project.

Rough-in is every bit of plumbing that ends up buried behind drywall, under the slab, or above a ceiling, which is to say everything you’ll never see again once the job is finished. That’s the drain, waste and vent piping, the water supply lines, gas lines if the project calls for them, the shower or tub valve set at the right depth for your finished wall, the tub itself set in place before the walls close up, and stub-outs for every sink and toilet. The water lines get pressure tested and the drains put under test before any of it is covered, because that is exactly what the rough-in inspection is looking at. Finish plumbing, or trim out, is the visible half, meaning toilets, faucets, sinks, disposals, shower trim, and the water heater connections.

Sometimes, and it’s a lot cheaper to find out before you frame anything. Every fixture you add pulls from the same supply, so a house sitting on an old 1/2 inch galvanized branch or an undersized main can end up with a beautiful new bathroom that works great right up until somebody flushes. Water sizing comes off three things, the incoming line size, the static pressure at the house, and the total fixture count with the addition included, so we look at all three and tell you whether the main or the branch needs to be upsized. Gas is the same idea and stricter about it. Gas pipe is sized off the total BTU load of every appliance on the system and the distance from the meter, so adding a tankless water heater, a range, or a shop heater can outrun a line that was perfectly adequate before. That can mean a larger line off the meter, and once in a while it means asking the gas company for a larger meter. We run our own gas piping and we never sub it out, and the same Oklahoma plumbing license (#180753) that covers your water and drains covers the gas. Never guess on gas, and never modify a gas line yourself.

Absolutely. We’re used to coordinating with GCs, designers, and other trades. Just loop us in early and we’ll work around the schedule. Builder work is plumbing on somebody else’s calendar, so we work to yours, tell you early if anything threatens a date, show up for ground works before the pour, and try hard not to be the trade holding up drywall.

It depends on the time of year, but project work typically books further out than service calls. Reach out as early in your planning process as you can. Even if you don’t have a start date yet, we can talk shop, share ideas, and get you on our radar.

Our labor carries a one year warranty. The fixtures, the water heater, and anything else we supply carry whatever warranty the manufacturer puts on them, which is usually longer, and we’ll tell you what you’re getting before you buy it. Parts you buy yourself and hand us are the exception. We’ll install them, but we can’t warranty somebody else’s fixture, and we’ll note that on the estimate so it isn’t a surprise later. If something we installed acts up inside that year, call us and we’ll come back out.

If you have plans, send them, because we take the plumbing off of them and that’s the fastest route to a number we can stand behind. If you don’t have plans yet, that’s alright on most residential work. A sketch on notebook paper and a walkthrough gets us a long way. What really moves the price is the stuff people don’t think to mention, like how many fixtures you’re adding and where they’re going, whether the house is on a slab or a crawlspace, how far the new work sits from the existing water, sewer and gas, what’s happening with the water heater, whether someone else is handling the concrete cutting and the dirt work, and which fixtures you’ve already picked. Photos of the existing plumbing help more than you’d think. Send what you have to hello@tulsapar.com or call us at (918) 800-4426 and we’ll take it from there.