Leak Repair & Repiping
Leaking Pipes Don't Wait. Neither Do We.
TYPES OF LEAKS WE REPAIR
- Visible Pipe Leaks — Exposed supply lines, connections under sinks, joints in crawl spaces. We repair or replace the affected section and confirm there's no further compromise nearby.
- Fixture Leaks — Dripping faucets, running toilets, and leaking supply valves waste more water than most people realize and rarely fix themselves. We stop it at the source.
- Hidden Wall & Ceiling Leaks — Water moving inside your walls causes mold, rot, and structural damage before you see a single drop. We locate it and keep disruption to your home minimal during repair.
- Slab Leaks — Water lines running beneath your foundation can leak without any obvious surface signs. We use diagnostic methods to pinpoint the location before recommending a repair approach.
SIGNS YOU MIGHT HAVE A LEAK (scannable list)
- Your water bill spiked without any change in usage
- Damp spots, soft flooring, or discoloration on walls or ceilings
- A musty or mildew smell that won't go away
- You can hear water running even when everything in the house is off
- Your water meter is moving when no fixtures are in use
When a Repair Isn't Enough: Repiping
SIGNS A REPIPE MIGHT BE THE RIGHT CALL (scannable list)
- Recurring leaks in different locations around the home
- Low or inconsistent water pressure throughout the house
- Rust-colored or metallic-tasting water
- Your home has galvanized steel pipe and is more than 40 years old
- A recent inspection flagged your pipe condition
OUR APPROACH
Call Us Now
Leak calls are high priority. We pick up fast. Secondary option: "Schedule an Inspection" button below for non-emergency concerns.
Frequently Asked Questions
Shut the water off, then call us at (918) 800-4426. The main shutoff is usually where the line enters the house, in a garage, utility closet, or outside wall. A single fixture has its own stop valve under the sink or behind the toilet. Get the floor dry and put a fan on it, because water sitting turns a pipe bill into a drywall bill. If you smell gas, get everybody out first and call ONG at 800-458-4251.
Your water meter will tell you before your eyes will. Shut off every faucet, the ice maker, and the irrigation, then watch the small triangle on the meter. If it’s still moving, water is going somewhere. We isolate and pressure test sections ourselves and run acoustic gear that hears water under concrete.
Check the toilets first, the quietest water thief in a house. Drop food coloring in the tank, don’t flush, and look in the bowl in fifteen minutes. Color means the flapper is passing water, and that’s a cheap fix you can do yourself. Otherwise it’s likely underground or under the slab.
The top five are broken seals, clogged lines, corrosion, damaged pipe joints, and incorrect installation. Around Tulsa, corrosion is the one we see most, between our hard water and older neighborhoods still on their original galvanized. Bad installation is a close second, showing up years later at a fitting somebody rushed.
A slab leak is a water line that’s failed under the concrete your house sits on. We locate it, then either open the concrete and replace that section or run a new line overhead through the attic. We do both in house. On an older system, one slab failure is often the first of several. Flooring over the patch is a flooring contractor’s work.
Copper corrodes from the inside out, so a pinhole says more about the run than the spot. Aggressive water, undersized pipe, flux left sitting in the line, and thin wall type M instead of type L all push it along. The first pinhole is a repair. The second in the same house means the whole run.
Galvanized steel can easily last 60 to 70 years, and a lot of Tulsa’s older neighborhoods are past that now. If you’re seeing leaks, flakes in your water, or low pressure, it’s time to repipe. One tell is a hot side noticeably weaker than the cold, because the hot lines scale up first.
One leak is a repair. Leaks in different parts of the house inside the same year is a repipe. In between, it comes down to the material, the age, and how close together the leaks came. We’ll tell you which one you’re looking at, even when it’s the cheaper one.
Pex or copper. Pex is our default because it bends, so we pull it through the attic and down the walls with far fewer holes cut than copper takes. Copper costs more, and it’s the material that pinholes when the water chemistry is against it. We’ll run copper if you want it.
Most definitely! It rids you of those pesky leaks, and it raises your property value when it comes time to sell. It’s also one of the few plumbing jobs you only do once. It’s not fun, but it is rewarding!
Repiping an entire house ranges from $5,000 to $7,000 on average, with high-end estimates at $15,000 or more for large, difficult homes. Bathrooms, two stories, a slab, and tight attic access push you toward the high end. Every range here came out of our own Tulsa job history, and we tell you what moves it up or down, so nothing on your estimate is a surprise.
Typically 1 to 3 days, and yes, you can stay. The water is off while we work, but we turn it back on before we leave every evening. We pull the plumbing permit ourselves, and our labor carries a one year warranty.
No. We cut the access we need, and putting the wall back is drywall and paint work, which isn’t our trade. We keep the cuts small and tell you where they’re going. Where a valve needs to stay reachable we set an access panel, and we haul off the old pipe and our debris.
Read your policy or call your agent. Policies generally cover sudden, accidental water damage and not the pipe that caused it, and a slow leak seeping for months gets denied as maintenance. A whole home repipe is almost never covered. We photograph what we find on every leak call, whether you file or not.
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